Destinations

Old Tbilisi: Sulfur Baths, Medieval Towers & the Soul of the Caucasus

Ancient monasteries, winding cobblestone alleys, sulfurous steam drifting from domed bathhouses — Tbilisi's old town is one of the most atmospheric places in the world. Here's everything you need to know before you go.

Article img

Overview

Nestled between the Caucasus Mountains and the Black Sea, Tbilisi has been a crossroads of civilisations for fifteen centuries. The old town — known locally as Dzveli Tbilisi — is a labyrinth of wooden balconies, Persian-influenced bathhouses, Orthodox churches, and crumbling caravanserais that feel alive with history even today.
Walking through Abanotubani — the sulfur bath district — you'll smell the mineral springs before you see the distinctive domed rooftops. This neighbourhood alone is worth the trip. But Old Tbilisi has far more to offer: the fortress of Narikala, the Bridge of Peace, the vine-covered streets of Kala, and the constant murmur of the Mtkvari River below.
Worth knowing: the old town was largely rebuilt after a devastating fire in 1795, when Persian Shah Agha Mohammad Khan sacked the city. What you see today is a 19th-century reconstruction — but much of it has survived nearly unchanged for over 200 years, giving the district a remarkably coherent architectural character.

How to Get There & Logistics

Tbilisi International Airport (TBS) connects directly to most European hubs. Wizz Air, FlyOne, and Georgian Airways offer affordable routes from Warsaw, Vienna, Prague, and Riga. Flight time from most Central European cities is around 3–4 hours. From the UK, expect 4.5–5 hours.

Difficulty Level & Accessibility

  • Physical Effort: Moderate. The district is built on hills with steep inclines, stairs, and cobblestone paving.
  • Family Friendly: Yes, but stroller navigation can be challenging due to steep slopes, narrow sidewalks, and stairs (a baby carrier is recommended).
  • Accessibility: Limited. The main Abanotubani plaza and Kote Abkhazi Street are flat, but most side streets and the path up to Narikala are not wheelchair-accessible.
  • Visiting Requirements:

What to See Nearby

  • Bolt — Most reliable ride-hailing app in Georgia. Prices are fixed before the trip.
  • Yandex Go — Works well in Tbilisi, slightly cheaper than Bolt on some routes.
  • Google Maps — Accurate for walking, metro, and marshrutka minibus lines.
  • Moovit — Best for planning complex routes using public transport.

Insider Tips

Insider Tips Best Time to Visit Best Season: Spring (April–May) and Autumn (September–October) offer the most pleasant weather (20–25°C) for walking without scorching heat. Winter is perfect for enjoying the hot sulfur baths, while Summer can get very hot (35°C+), making late afternoons/evenings the best time to explore. Time of Day: Early morning (before 09:00) for crowd-free photos, or late afternoon around sunset when soft illumination lights up the balconies and Narikala Fortress. Photo Spots
  • Medical expenses — Look for a minimum of $100,000 cover. Georgian private hospitals are good but charge foreigners at full rate.
  • Emergency evacuation — Essential if you're going anywhere near the mountains. Helicopter evacuation from Kazbegi costs upward of $4,000.
  • Trip cancellation — Particularly relevant if you're booking flights and accommodation in advance — Georgia's weather can be unpredictable.
  • Adventure activities — Check the policy's definition of 'adventure' carefully. Many exclude anything above 3,000 m by default.
Hacks & Recommendations Sulfur Baths: Book private rooms (e.g., Orbeliani / Chrebi Baths) at least 3–5 days in advance via their official website or phone. Hidden Gems: Peek into open residential courtyards ("Italian yards") to discover historic 19th-century murals, stained glass, and spiral staircases.

Travel insurance for Georgia

Georgia does not require travel insurance for entry, but healthcare costs for foreigners can be significant. A single hospital visit without cover can run $200–800 USD. If you plan any hiking, skiing, or adventure activities in the mountains, specialist adventure cover is not optional — it's essential.
The most common claim among visitors to Georgia involves road traffic accidents, gastrointestinal illness (usually from tap water), and sprained ankles from uneven cobblestones. All of these are covered under standard medical travel insurance.
Important for mountain trekkers Standard travel insurance does not cover trekking above 3,000 m, off-piste skiing, or mountaineering. If you're heading to Kazbegi, Svaneti, or the ski resorts at Gudauri, ensure your policy explicitly lists these activities — or you will not be covered for rescue or evacuation.

What to look for in a policy

Not all travel insurance policies are created equal. When comparing options for a trip to Georgia, prioritise these four coverage areas:
  • Medical expenses — Look for a minimum of $100,000 cover. Georgian private hospitals are good but charge foreigners at full rate.
  • Emergency evacuation — Essential if you're going anywhere near the mountains. Helicopter evacuation from Kazbegi costs upward of $4,000.
  • Trip cancellation — Particularly relevant if you're booking flights and accommodation in advance — Georgia's weather can be unpredictable.
  • Adventure activities — Check the policy's definition of 'adventure' carefully. Many exclude anything above 3,000 m by default.

Plan comparison

All plans cover the full duration of your stay in Georgia. Prices are per person per day and include 24/7 emergency assistance.
Plan Medical Price / day Trip cancel Adventure sports
Basic from $1.20 $30,000
Standard Popular from $2.50 $100,000
Premium from $4.80 $250,000
Adventure+ from $7.20 $500,000 ✓ full
* Prices are indicative. Final cost depends on trip duration, traveller age, and departure country.

Money & payments

The Georgian Lari (GEL) is the local currency. As of 2026, 1 USD ≈ 2.62 GEL, and 1 EUR ≈ 2.87 GEL. Cash is still king in the old town — many small restaurants, wine bars, and market stalls don't accept cards. Use ATMs on Rustaveli Avenue for the best exchange rates; avoid airport booths, which charge a 5–8% margin.

Tipping etiquette

Tipping is not mandatory but widely appreciated. In restaurants, 10% is standard. For tour guides, 5–10 GEL per person per day is customary. Taxi drivers do not expect tips but rounding up is common.

Language

Georgian (ქართული) is one of the oldest written languages in the world, with a unique alphabet found nowhere else. In tourist areas, English is widely spoken, especially by anyone under 40. Russian is understood by older generations and in some border regions.
Download the Georgian alphabet before you arrive — recognising even a few letters helps enormously with metro stations, street signs, and menus. Locals genuinely appreciate any effort to engage with the script, and the unique 33-letter alphabet is itself a source of national pride.

Safety

Tbilisi consistently ranks among the safest capitals in Europe for tourists. Petty crime is very low, and street harassment is rare. The main hazards are aggressive traffic (drivers are fast and unpredictable), uneven cobblestones after dark, and the occasional aggressive street dog in quieter neighbourhoods.
Emergency services respond quickly in the city. The police presence in the old town is strong. For genuine emergencies, dial 112 — operators speak English.